Its name comes from providing a refuge for tiny critters like amphipods, copepods and mysid shrimp which would be eaten by the fish in the main tank. Here they can get to work munching on detritus and if their population explodes and some overflow into the main tank as food, its a bonus. Algae refugiums harbour macroalgae like Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha which can provide cover for the microfauna as well as themselves soaking up nitrates and phosphates and using them as food. Refugia can benefit seahorse aquariums in several ways by helping to filter the water and providing a natural source of live food.
If you ever have a Seahorse which looks thin, a week spent inside an algae refugium full of live mysis and copepods may actually do it good.
Most of the seahorses we keep are not the ones we see in photos, hanging onto gorgonians. In the dedicated seahorse aquarium, grow lots of Caulerpa in the main tank or decorate with artificial aquarium plants or even coarse netting. Plastic chains are popular with Seahorse keepers because they float upwards from the bottom and Seahorses seem to really like them.
A plastic plant can make a very suitable place to hold on to. Better still is a holdfast where they can hold but feed at the same time. Give it a try. Tankmates are probably the number one killer of seahorses, not always directly, but through competition.
Experienced seahorse keepers will know that they can be frustrating to feed at times. Sometimes they will let food float straight past their snouts, while other times they may take minutes to go over to the food and look at it before deciding to suck it up and eat it. So seahorses must be kept alone, with other seahorses or with their relatives the pipefish.
Another species which is known to be outcompeted and starve in normal aquaria is the Mandarin, Synchiropus splendidus. Mandarins can be a fitting partnership as both can be closely monitored and target-fed, and if you develop an Aiptasia problem, common in heavily fed Seahorse aquaria, if the tank is large enough, it can make good habitat for a Copperband butterflyfish — another fish prone to starvation in conventional reef tanks.
Easy gorgonians, such as silver muricea, corky fingers, purple frilly gorgonia and purple bush gorgonia, will do well with a little specific care. Mushroom corals and ricordias are also generally acceptable.
Faux corals are becoming more popular as new varieties that look almost exactly like the real thing come to market. Seahorses need structures of some kind to hitch onto during the day. Most of their days are spent with their tails wrapped around some easy-to-grab hitching spots, swiveling their independent eyes in every direction to try and hunt for food. Gorgonians are excellent for this behavior, as are many faux corals and kelp.
My two yellow H. In the evenings, they migrate to the yellow and orange gorgonians near the front of the tank, often with their little faces pointed right at me as they wait for their supper. Many seahorses are found in and around relatively shallow seagrass flats, as well as seagrass zones that border the calmer inner portions of a reef. While most seagrasses are considered protected species and should not be collected, there are many similar macroalgae that can be substituted in a seahorse aquarium.
If your local laws permit it, different species of Caulerpa algae are excellent candidates for a planted seahorse tank. Caulerpa is often used in refugiums for its potential to filter out ammonia and nitrate, which makes it all the more desirable for a seahorse tank. Be sure to check your state regulations before using Caulerpa; it is considered an invasive species in some areas. Because Caulerpa can grow so quickly, it will need to be pruned to avoid choking out any coral you may have.
Other slower-growing algae that do well include Gracilaria, Laurencia and Bryothamnion flame algae. I recommend live rock in a seahorse tank. Just be sure that it has been properly cured; that is, pests, such as large bristleworms and mantis shrimp, should be absent from the rock.
Bristleworms may not be a huge problem, but a mantis shrimp would likely eventually kill any seahorse tankmate. The best food for captive-bred seahorses is frozen Mysis shrimp. Because seahorses are such slow, methodical feeders, you must decide how best to present the food to them. You can hand-feed them with a little patience, spot-feed a few shrimp in front of them or set up a feeding station for them where they can eat.
In most cases, the most useful tool is going to be a turkey baster. Most seahorses should be fed six to eight shrimp twice a day. Larger horses will eat more, so observing your animals is important. Although I love hand-feeding my seahorses, I find that a feeding station is much more convenient. A feeding station consists of any cup-like object that the horses can come up to.
I use a small, clear glass culinary prep bowl, but I have seen people use many different items. Large empty shells, flat depressions in a piece of live rock or a store-bought feeder station will work.
Provide some hitching posts around the cup for the seahorses to latch onto. Present your shrimp in front of the seahorse by releasing one or two from the turkey baster in front of its snout.
With a little practice, you can keep a single shrimp balanced delicately at the tip of your turkey baster while you slowly guide the shrimp and the seahorse over to the dinner bowl. Usually you will only need to do this once or twice before they catch on.
Soon you will see them motoring over to their feed bowl as soon as they see you walk in the room. Color varies from individual to individual rather than from species to species. The color of a seahorse can change depending on its mood, stress level and environment.
For example, my H. When I first introduced them to the tank, they both lost most of their yellow coloration and assumed a mottled brown that blended in with the live rock. Closely monitor your seahorses for color changes; a radical color change may be the result of stress. A stressed horse, however, may lose these saddle markings completely.
Seahorses are prone to most of the same ailments as other fish. The diagnosis and description of seahorse disease could fill a full volume by itself.
Detailed diagnosis and care articles are available online with a quick Internet search. To cover the basics, however, remember that though they are so visually different, seahorses will still occasionally come down with the most common of marine parasites: ich.
Of course, the best cure for ich is prevention, so be vigilant and quarantine any animal before it goes into your aquarium system. Seahorses are also prone to developing skin lesions from time to time. Be prepared with a small hospital tank, just in case you need to remove and treat a seahorse. And now you are ready for your own seahorse tank! I hope this guide has been helpful to you. Although a seahorse aquarium requires a little more work to start up, the benefits of the finished product far outweigh the initial planning required.
Seahorse aquariums are both incredibly relaxing and completely enthralling at the same time. After all, your seahorses will probably be watching you back. Published: January 1, By: Chewy Editorial Updated: March 18, These are healthier and will be easier to care for. Wild captives tend to do poorly. Could you use fake plants or do you have to use real plants??
Also if you would have ten sea horses how much shrimp would you feed them. I just had a few questions. Go to the video above, Seahorses for sale, and you should be able to find those who ship them to Canada. This is very helpful for me and i bet i might get a seahorse as a pet for me and my mom thx for the info. Health Problems. Freshwater Pets. Freshwater Aquariums. Saltwater Pets. Saltwater Aquariums. Exotic Pets. Guinea Pigs. Pet Ownership.
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